Тема: sw 900 lcd ошибка 10, не работает кнопка переключения скоростей
Прочитано 2739 раз
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13 Авг 2019 в 17:30
Прочитано 2739 раз
Владимир092
Сообщений: 2
Доброго времени суток! Помогите пожалуйста решить проблему. Заказал с китая мотор колесо Bafang 48W 500 дисплей sw 900 lcd . Установил, опробовал, выключил. При включении выдает ошибка 10 и кнопка которая скидывает скорости не работает. что делать подскажите пожалуйста!
13 Авг 2019 в 17:38
Ответ #1
Hachik
Запорожье — Запорожская область — Украина
Сообщений: 27
У меня Р10 — проблема с ручкой газа, проверь.
13 Авг 2019 в 17:39
Ответ #2
Владимир092
Сообщений: 2
У меня Р10 — проблема с ручкой газа, проверь.
Вообще я чайник 
подскажите как
13 Авг 2019 в 17:46
Ответ #3
MaF
Модератор объявлений
Россия, Москва
Сообщений: 3104
Мультиметром)
Подаем на ДХ 4.2+в,вращаем ручку газа и смотрим,что на сигнальном конце.
Заодно проверяем и контроллер — смотрим,сколько вольт приходит на дх ручки газа,замеряем на контроллере в точках +- ручки газа.
17 Дек 2020 в 15:20
Ответ #4
саша5
Сообщений: 29
lcd-sw900 выдает ошибку 7 где капать ?
06 Июн 2021 в 21:11
Ответ #5
iliask
Сообщений: 1
Закоротил между собой красный и синий провод на шлейфе контроллер — дисплей, ошибка исчезла, все заработало.
Help! Errore 10 display Sw900 LCD 3 su kit 1500w 48 60 v controller nel mozzo
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Thread starterGuiido
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Start dateJun 16, 2019
Guiido
Finding my (electric) wheels
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#1
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#2
1.No 5V on the wires that need 5V. Measure between the black and red wires on the throttle, pedal sensor or motor hall sensor connectors when the LCD is switched on. If you find no 5V, ask again and we will tell you how to solve that.
2. Connection fault on the cable from the controller to the LCD. Check the connector for corrosion or a bent pin.
3. Zip tie holding cables to the frame pulled too tight, which cuts the wires inside the insulation.
If you have the sealed connectors, you have to probe the pins in the connector to check the 5v. Try any two pins in the throttle connector, then the other two combinations of two pins. If they’re holes rather than pins, stick sewing needles in to be able to make contact for testing.
Last edited: Jun 16, 2019
Guiido
Finding my (electric) wheels
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#3
Guiido
Finding my (electric) wheels
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#4
acceleratore 1.6 v pedale 1.6 v non ci sono 5 v
Guiido
Finding my (electric) wheels
Guiido
Finding my (electric) wheels
Guiido
Finding my (electric) wheels
Guiido
Finding my (electric) wheels
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#10
1. There is a short circuit on the 5v somewhere. Disconnect everything from the controller (throttle, pedal sensor, brakes and anything else) then measure again to see if you get 5v.
2. The 5V regulator in the controller is burnt. that happens when there is a problem, like a short-circuit on the 5v somewhere. if the 5v regulator is blown, you have to open the controller and hope that the circuit board id not potted. It’s easy to replace the regulator and they don’t cost much, but if the circuit board is potted, you must buy a new controller.
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#11
Error 10 means that the LCD does not communicate with the controller. There are many possible reasons for that, but these are most frequent.1.No 5V on the wires that need 5V. Measure between the black and red wires on the throttle, pedal sensor or motor hall sensor connectors when the LCD is switched on. If you find no 5V, ask again and we will tell you how to solve that.
2. Connection fault on the cable from the controller to the LCD. Check the connector for corrosion or a bent pin.
3. Zip tie holding cables to the frame pulled too tight, which cuts the wires inside the insulation.
If you have the sealed connectors, you have to probe the pins in the connector to check the 5v. Try any two pins in the throttle connector, then the other two combinations of two pins. If they’re holes rather than pins, stick sewing needles in to be able to make contact for testing.
I’m getting around 1.5v on the yellow and green wires inside the LCD. Are those supposed to be 5v?
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#12
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#13
HELP please- Error code 10 Voilamart 48v 1000w Rear wheel kit
www.pedelecs.co.uk
Posted: 23 june 2021, 8:07
Решение проблемы
Раз уж никто никто не хочет помогать советом, хотя тут на форуме есть и профессионалы-электронщики и мастера сервис-центров, отвечу сам.
По факту ошибка E-08, E-09 и E-10 это одно и тоже, вернее сказать причина/первоисточник возникновения ошибки кроется в курке.
Экспериментально проверил, закорачивая провода датчика холла плюс/минус на сигнал появляется error — 10, и проблема вовсе не передаче сигнала между БК и контроллером. Если же закорачивать
Может случиться так, что проводка прям у основания пластикового корпуса может перетереться, из-за падения электросамоката и некачественной пайки проводов к датчику холла могут оторваться провода и коротить между собой, ко всему этому, добавляется риск остаться без датчика холла, т.к. может оторваться плюсовой провод и закоротить сигнальный проводок. Нет контроллер не сгорит от этого, там на этот случай стоит резюк.
Ахтунг!!! Очень тяжелая гифка
Как видите на курок нет реакции.
Да, можно отыскать на алихе просто новый курок, за 600+ рубасов, но зачем? Я думаю многие кто работал паяльником справятся с этой задачей.
Так уж вышло, что я обошел трех мастеров в своем городе и ни один не нашел причину поломки. Менял по очереди курок, контроллер и бортовой компьютер, прозванивал проводку и провода курка. Все исправно, но нет, что-то было не исправно. Отчаявщись часто просил о помощи местных Куговодов, нема, или лень было помогать или это их хлеб, кто их знает. Последнее (как по закону подлости) о чем я подумал, что стоит разобрать все таки курок, да, он разборный, открывается плоско-параллельной шлицевой отверткой, отщелкивая пластиковые зажимы.
Как итог цена решения поломки составила 200 рублей, в ближайшем чип и дип купил этот датчик холла , пропаял и вернул на место.
Усе, самое забавное что теперь имею по два комплекта всего, Даже купил новую косу для замены всей проводки, научился обжимать JSX — коннекторы =)
Кстати TF-100 завелся сразу, ничего перепаивать не пришлось. при подключении своего курка на тф -100, игнорирует свой распаянный курок.
В планах переобуться на полный привод, и купить много мелочевки и LH-100, или вообще купить ультрон, Эти куги…
Как уазики из икеи.
Можно разобрать, а собрать обратно уже полтора москвича.
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#1
Hi Pedego peeps (with a special call out to experienced and expert Pedego peeps!!)!
This morning, my bike all packed up to head to church, BAM—no power. «Error 10.» So, took the car to church. (The car was in shock, but adjusted fine, thank you. The trip to church may have even served to blow a bit of dust off of my car. No harm done!)
Looked up the error code on the handy dandy table, and learned this:
So, meanwhile, I’d texted my husband from church and he tried the bike. No problem. I came home and tried to find where the LCD cable connections are. Found what I figured is one of them wrapped under the black plastic strip wrapping sort of close to the LCD display. I gave it a firm little push inward from both sides. Maybe if I look harder I can find the other one.
Went out a bit later, grocery shopping with my son, and had three ERROR 10 incidents. All resolves when I did the same «push from both sides» maneuver on the upper cable connector.
Meanwhile, I think maybe I need to unplug and re-plug both connectors as instructed in (1) above. So, my question for you experts…
- How do I unwind the black plastic strip that is wound around the cables, and how do I re-wind it so it looks nice again?
- Where is the other connector end that needs to be unplugged and re-seated?
THANK YOU for sharing your expertise!
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#2
It’s been a while, so I assume you’ve taken care of this, but in case you haven’t, or someone else has the problem…
Pedego has changed wiring harnesses over the years. Older ones had plugs that just push together. Newer ones have screw-on connectors. The older, push-type sometimes pulled loose, so that was often the first things by you checked. You might as well check the screw-type, too, but they almost never separate on their own.
The “other connector end” is at the controller. I’m sure you know, but many don’t, that the controller is not the LCD. The controller is a metal box with lots of wires coming out of it, that’s usually somewhere near the battery. On your Interceptor with plastic battery, it’s behind the metal panel behind the seatpost, at the front of the battery dock. Remove the four outer screw to open the panel and expose the controller, after making sure power is off. I can’t tell you which connector it is, as they’ve changed over the years, but it will be one coming out of the wire wrap fed through the hole in the bottom of the controller bay.
Speaking of wire wrap, unwinding is easy; rewrapping so it looks nice takes practice! Wrap it tight, and try not to overlap, except maybe where it widens for connectors.
I know you have multiple bikes. One good way to diagnose a problem is to switch components. If you’re not sure whether your LCD is bad, you can switch it with another one. Of course, this is a lot harder with intermittent problems.
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#3
Thanks, John! It is doing fine. Without unwrapping the tape, I pushed the connector by the handlebars together. I didn’t feel it move, but haven’t had the problem again. I didn’t know it screws in! I bought my bike in April from a new dealer, so I assume it’s the new type.
I appreciate the tape instructions. I’ll give it a try some time!
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#4
I too am experiencing error 10 code ? It’s a brand new build I had an error 8 code not really sure how I cured that ,then the 10 code popped up while scrolling through the 15 steps of sw-900 setting tire size , brightness, mph vs. Km , ECT . So I too will check all connections. I have an internal controller within the rear hub , so I truly hope nothing there is fried I haven’t even ridden it yet. I will update thanks
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#5
I too am experiencing error 10 code ? It’s a brand new build I had an error 8 code not really sure how I cured that ,then the 10 code popped up while scrolling through the 15 steps of sw-900 setting tire size , brightness, mph vs. Km , ECT . So I too will check all connections. I have an internal controller within the rear hub , so I truly hope nothing there is fried I haven’t even ridden it yet. I will update thanks
Updated 1/21/2020
Went through each and every connection on the bike today. Turned everything off ,unhooked, then checked , soldered where necessary, shrink tubing and outter harness protective wrap, it’s really clean specially for my first ebike build,BUT IT STILL WONT GET RID OF 10 ERROR CODE. no operation of motor at all, never have even heard it turn on.???
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#6
Updated 1/21/2020
Went through each and every connection on the bike today. Turned everything off ,unhooked, then checked , soldered where necessary, shrink tubing and outter harness protective wrap, it’s really clean specially for my first ebike build,BUT IT STILL WONT GET RID OF 10 ERROR CODE. no operation of motor at all, never have even heard it turn on.???
Please inform me of the correct troubleshooting proceedures where do I start testing first? Have 52.7 volts coming from battery pack, right now it’s hooked to 48v 13.5mah qzf battery pack with bms 30 continuous amps I believe and again the controller is in the hub, can I unhook the sw-900 display and just power up the wheel direct from battery to test motor ,for a matter of seconds
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#7
Please inform me of the correct troubleshooting proceedures where do I start testing first? Have 52.7 volts coming from battery pack, right now it’s hooked to 48v 13.5mah qzf battery pack with bms 30 continuous amps I believe and again the controller is in the hub, can I unhook the sw-900 display and just power up the wheel direct from battery to test motor ,for a matter of seconds
How can I know for sure if my display is faulty and does that really matter to the motor in terms of turning on or activating? The display can change parameters but can it be responsible for not delivering any power at all to motor
Functions/Settings
Even though you can see only 6 main readings on the display, there are 14 usable functions/settings you can access and adjust based on your needs.
This is a list of what you will find behind the scene, to go to settings press and hold the up and down arrow simultaneously, then use the middle to cycle through and save settings and up and down to adjust. :
- P01 – Display brightness: You can choose from 1 to 3, where 3 is the most bright option (for sunny days).
- P02 – Kilometres or miles per hour: depending on your location, you can select to display the speed in km (“0” ) or mph (“1”). For this to work properly, you need to set the size of your ebike wheels.
- P03 – Voltage of battery and motor: this is where you will specify the volts of your battery and motor. You can select 24v, 36v and 48v. Normally, the SW900 is set to 48v so make sure you select the right voltage grade. However, the sw900 will work up to 72V.
- P04 – Display sleep timer: this come from zero to 60 mins. In this case, zero means your controller will stay on all the time and if 60 mins, it will shut down after 1 hr of no-operation (this will not happen if you are riding your electric bike though).
- P05 – Pedal Assist levels (PAS): there is a total of five (5) PAS. You will see a bunch of numbers with “v” next to it (meaning voltage), so don’t freak out cos you don’t need to do anything with that. In simple words, you can choose “zero” for 1 to 3 levels of PAS and “one” for 1 to 5 levels of PAS. I personally like the “one” setting, since it lets the system deliver more sensitivity in term of my pedaling efforts.
- P06 – Wheel size selection: this is where you establish the size of your wheels in inchs. This is important in order to display the right speed you are traveling.
- *P07 – Speed measuring magnet: this element will be factory calibrated so better not to mess with it. Basically, based on the assistance mode you select and speed limit, it will tell the controller if the motor is delivering the right assistance and therefore if the battery is delivering the correct voltage. This is very important in order to indicate the controller to deactivate the motor if you reach your set speed limit. Ask your trusted bike shop what would be the right setting if you change the ebike motor.
- P08 – Speed limit: this is a very important setting since it will help you set the right speed that will comply with the local regulations and your comfortable riding speed.
- P09 – Zero and Non-Zero Start: This relates to the throttle device activation. A non-zero start means the throttle will have a delay reaction of 1 sec. I believe this relates to safety rather than messing with your patience.
- P10 – Driving mode: you will see 0, 1 and 2, where “0” is to ride with PAS only, 1 for throttle only and 2 for a combination of the PAS and throttle.
- P11 – PAS sensitivity: ranging from 1 to 24, where 24 will give you more riding range due to less battery and motor usage.
- *P12 – PAS start strength: you will find “0” for low strength and 5 for the fullest strength, meaning immediate start.
- *P13 – PAS magnet type: you will have a 5, 8 and 12 type. This comes factory calibrated and will be directly related to the motor type you ebike has.
- *P14 – Current limit of the Controller: set by the manufacturer, you will have a range between 1 to 20Ah. Don’t change it if you don’t need it.
the * symbol means factory calibrated. — credit to electricbikeadvisor.com
| SW900 Error Codes. | |
|---|---|
| 1 | Save. |
| 2 | Brakes are active (Not really an error, just an indication) |
| 3 | PAS issues (at specific mode). |
| 4 | 6 km/h cruising. (only supported on certain controllers) |
| 5 | Real-time cruising. (only supported on certain controllers) |
| 6 | Battery voltage is low. |
| 7 | Motor issues. |
| 8 | Throttle issues. |
| 9 | Controller issues. |
| 10 | Communication receiving issues. (Between controller and display) |
| 11 | Communication transmitting issues. (Between controller and display) |
| 12 | BMS communication issues. |
| 13 | Headlight issues. |
